TO RUSSIA WITH LOVE
While there may be mutterings of a new Cold War over at the UN Security Council, there was nothing but love for the Russians in London this week when Elena Perminova - wife of Alexander Lebedev - and erstwhile street style star hosted a chic dinner at Kensington Palace for Russian-owned jewelry brand Sybarite. A ballerina pole-danced to Tchaikovsky - what more could one ask for on a chilly and rainy English evening?
While talk in the news might be of more serious matter it turns out Russia is having a flowering of new and exciting and hip-per than hip underground fashion talent. Last October saw the 29th season of Russian Fashion Week and included buzz brands such as ‘Walk of Shame,’ now in its third year, which held a presentation in a suitably trendy and gutted top-floor apartment - the standout cool piece being an orange maximum security prison bright orange jacket with ‘Walk of Shame’ emblazoned on it in Cyrillic…of course. The label has since been picked up by Opening Ceremony.
Back at ‘KP’ - former home of the Princess of Wales, now home to the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge - there was nothing underground about the fashion that glittered on the Russian socials of London in Balmain and Balenciaga who were out to support their IT girl friend Elena, along with the British Vogue girls and model Amber Le Bon and designer Emilia Wickstead showing off a baby bump, as well as two Han Christian Anderson toy ’soldiers’ who escorted the ladies into dinner.
MODEL PICKS | LAURA G FALL 2014
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The Brits were back in town for BAFTA’s Los Angeles bash at the Beverly Hills Hotel - and as there’s nothing they love more than a nice, long chat so it will come as no surprise then that the night was one of long and jovial speeches and toasts. Emma Watson stole the show in sharp Balenciaga, and was honoured by Burberry, the brand which landed her, her first modeling gig. Also honoured were Mark Ruffalo, Dame Judi Dench, Robert Downey Jr, Mike Leigh and Julia Louis-Dreyfus.
It’s been quite the Brit week for Hollywood; heartthrob Eddie Redmayne was hosting a drinks at the Chateau Marmont the night before. Were the female guests devastated that he’d announced his engagement? Yes, most likely. But there was worse news to come a few days later from London; Benedict Cumberbatch announced his engagement to theatre director Sophie Hunter via The Times’ Court and Social page. Was that the sound of a thousand hearts breaking? From his female fans, known as the ‘Cumberbitches’, certainly.
FADE TO BLACK
Black is back: it’s official. And not a moment too soon. It’s all Hallow’s Eve, of course, so what better moment to channel some dark inspiration from the Metropolitan’s appropriately timed new exhibition: “Death Becomes Her: A Century of Mourning Attire.” It’s the 19th century, natch. A century presided over by an iconic Queen and Empress - Victoria - who spent the majority of her reign dressed to mourn her beloved Prince Consort, Albert. 1815-1915 was a hundred years when death was so fetishized it virtually kept the dress couturiers in business alone. Would you have looked better in ‘full mourning’ or ‘half-morning’? Go see if death becomes you; Happy Hallowe’en from Leon Max and MaxStudio.
ALL THE FUN OF THE FRIEZE
By Oscar Humphries
Frieze and the fairs and events that surround it continue to evolve and this last week saw the worlds of fashion, design and art collide. Gucci came on board as a sponsor for Frieze Masters - adding Italian glamour to this art fair which makes its focus art made before the year 2000. It’s talented young director, Victoria Sidall, encouraged the participating galleries to bring their very best material to London. The result was triumphant with Marlborough Gallery presenting a Francis Bacon solo-stand and Dickinson Gallery doing a stellar wall of ‘rose period’ Picassos… It added a gravitas to a schedule that largely celebrated the new.
It was impossible to see everything but everyone I spoke to was raving about the Sigmar Polke show at the Tate Modern (which you may have seen at MOMA) and Glenn Ligon’s superb exhibition at the Camden Arts Centre. What’s unique about Frieze week is that you can see work by artists - living and dead - in these museum shows and then go to Phillips (their monolithic new building on Berkeley Square opened to much fanfare this week), Christies, or Sothebys to buy work by these artists at Auction. Indeed the collectors and dealers that rule the art world were a presence in both sale rooms and VIP rooms at PAD, Frieze, and Frieze Masters. The new art world is one in which the public, the private, and the commercial co-exist in near (and sometimes far from near) harmony.
It’s impossible to see everything although I know ambitious collectors who were going to seven events per night. The best way to see everyone if not everything was to go to Chiltern Fire House where Larry Gagosian gave one of several dinner and where, on Thursday night, the artist Marc Quinn and Apple’s new hire Mark Newson sat encamped.
I launched my new magazine with PAD’s wonderful and generous fair director Patrick Perrin on the Wednesday night. And whist I lost hordes of people to the Frieze Masters / Gucci party at the Italian Embassy, to the ICA dinner, to the White Cube dinner and the super cool Sothebys contemporary party we were 92 for baked potatoes and caviar. In a week of air kissing and record prices my dinner felt distinctly friends and family, thank God.
Oscar Humphries is the Editor and Publisher of The Art Book.
Leon and Yana Max recently attended a private view of the Academy of Motion Picture Arts & Sciences’ ‘Hollywood Costume’ exhibition, held -appropriately - at the historic Wilshire May Company Building, Wilshire Boulevard, Los Angeles - designated the future, shining, mothership for the Academy Museum of Motion Pictures. The show, originally held at London’s Victoria & Albert Museum is a rollercoaster ride through 150 of the most famous costumes to be seen on the silver screen; star attractions include Harrison Ford’s Indiana Jones, Kate Winslet’s Titanic glamour as well as vintage glories such as Dorothy’s Wizard of Oz. Well worth a visit.
LONDON FILM FESTIVAL OPENING NIGHT
"Certainly no overcast English sky was going to dampen proceedings at the IWC Schaffhausen and BFI London Film Festival opening gala dinner - it was the big event of the week, here in London.
And so the celebrity set descended on Battersea Park; Emily Blunt, Douglas Booth, Stephen Fry, Julie Walters, Mick Jagger, and Erin O’Connor, a former face of Leon Max were all there. They dined on grass-fed beef and truffle tagliatelle, they laughed as British comic legends Walters and Stephen Fry were presented with the ‘Honorary Award in Recognition for Outstanding Contribution to Comedy’ - and they gave them a standing ovation too.
I saw Marc Jacobs model Eliza Cummings cozying up to Topshop heiress Chloe Green while Stephen Fry was embarrassed to admit that he had worn the wrong brand of watch (rather than a piece from IWC) he was sporting an expensive Patek Phillipe design which he hid when I enquired about his timepiece…
And, of course, they partied into the early hours - let’s hope they aren’t too tired for the next 12-days that is the movie marathon of the London Film Festival. I’ve already seen Benedict Cumberbatch and Keira Knightley taking to the West End streets to promote their films - I wonder who we’ll spot next?”
Paris by Night
Love it, or hate it, the Kardashian Wests took Paris this Fashion Week. There was the Big Moment as they arrived at the Balmain show and sat with baby North on knee on the Front Row. There was Carine Roitfeld’s party for the new issue of her mag and there the Big Moment was when Givenchy’s Riccardo Tisci arrived with Kim Kardashian on one arm (Kanye had already performed earlier in the week at shoe designer Pierre Hardy’s 15th anniversary,) and Ciara on the other. Justin Bieber came too. And Paris Hilton…
But there are some who still opt for a more low-key, non-Kardashian approach it seems. There was Stella McCartney who went a bit London (if that’s possible in Paris) with a concert at Silencio filled with the Brit Pack, Edie Campbell et al. There was the Chloé party which was paired down French cool and Marianne Faithful sang huskily and Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, a former face of Leon Max, shimmered luxuriously.
But it was the last night of the week which was the most discreet and yet seemingly the most cool and fun; Louis Vuitton, and its dinner and dance for its design team and and their close circle of friends at the newly re-furbed and legendary club, Castel. There were actresses Charlotte Gainsbourg and Catherine Deneuve, a pop star Robyn, and they dined with designer Nicolas Ghesquiere and toasted his second Vuitton collection. And - quelle horreur - there wasn’t a bodyguard or a VIP room in sight.
The Cape is the hottest piece of the season. It’s a bit military and therefore cool. It’s the ultimate cover-up that you can wear with everything, be it long skirt, short skirt and boots. Leg-slimming capes covered ’60s dresses at Yves St Laurent, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley has been seen out in her Burberry blanket cape - Cara, Suki and the other Burberry girls all have their personalized blanket capes too - and Dolce and Gabbana and Valentino both had capes with hoods straight out of the fairy tales. With a simple, crisp silhouette it’s time to be a fashion super-hero.
A sweltering late summer night didn’t stop the downtown denizens and Brooklyn hipsters from making a fabulous showing at the Killer Heels opening party at the Brooklyn Museum. Champagne served from crystal glasses shaped like pumps? Check. Tattoos and tiaras? Check. Not to mention countless mile high stilettos and the wildest creations from the likes of Gaultier, Ferragamo, Prada and the most fabulous and influential designers of the 20th Century, interspersed with amazing video installations from the likes of Marilyn Minter and Rashaad Newsome. Wanna get the same experience that party go-ers like China Chow and Stefano Tonchi of W experienced? The show’s open to all at the Brooklyn Museum of Art through February 15th. Run.. or walk depending on your heel height.
Contributing Editor: Robert Rowe, International Fashion Director, W magazine
Editor’s Picks: Venice Film Festival 2014
Venice, the oldest festival on the motion picture calendar - now in its 71st year - opened, perhaps appropriately, this week with ‘Birdman,’ a movie about an over-the-hill actor chasing art-house over mainstream success. The irony was not lost on festival-watchers some of whom have wondered where the big star names and big title movies have gone from this hyper-chic European festival. Despite said mutterings actress Emma Stone has already unleashed a chic Proenza Schouler for the film’s press conference, swiftly followed by a glam Valentino for its premiere, neither of which looked too shabby. Feeling that Venice mood? Here’s a style guide to guarantee you always make the best-dressed list.
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Scotland the Brave
Scotland is always on trend. Whether it’s collections covered with Caledonian-inspired plaids - take the Isle of Skye-influenced red check of ‘McQueen Modern,’ for example - or the new, young British crop of IT-models, Idina Moncrieffe and Jean Campbell, coming from North of the Border, or Scottish supermodel Stella Tennant’s local Lovat Mill producing trendy tweeds for Tom Ford and Ralph Lauren, Scotland is always on the fashion map. The fact that there is the small matter of a vote on independence from the United Kingdom next month adds a bit of political spice into the mix. So where better to debut the new line from Max Studio Country than on a Scottish grouse moor? You’ve got the rich browns and moss greens on a smart line in tweeds, crisp cotton shirts criss-crossed with countryside-appropriate stripes and cozy cashmere turtlenecks to layer. This, you see, is the moment to rep Lady-Mary-from-Downton in quilted jackets, thigh-skimming boots with leather uppers, all given a darn cool twist with heavy weight knitted leggings. Och aye the now! (As they might say in Scotland.)
Images: Leon Max Maxstudio Fall 2014 Campaign, Yana Max wears Max Studio Country in Scotland, Models Zinta & Laura G (Photogenics) in Leon Max/Maxstudio Fall 2014
Leon Max | Maxstudio Sport Collection
This season’s Max Studio Sport Collection from Leon Max maintains its clean and basic lines, with a raw and bold twist for that urban goddess. This collection is all about street-wise for techno city girls; lots of leather and rubber trims, tied in with tight fitting, sporty cuts with a laser-cut edge. There’s the textured jacket with rubberized edging, boots straight up for the badass girl not to mention the matte leggings with rubberized side tuxedo stripes.
Would he or his environmental creations be considered the ‘Worlds Largest Single Artwork?’ Jim Denevan, a culinary enthusiast whose vision expands to textural mind-blowing ubër scale sand or ice drawings, is one inspired man. “ Situated somewhere between art and performance,” writes Margherita Dessanay, as his installations are set in a natural environment and effected by all elements to last as long as nature or man allows. Art and Fashion live parallel and harmoniously; there is an organized and planned repeat of lines, both in his work and the beaded and embroidered dresses new to the Pre-Fall Leon Max Collection.
Even gale force winds and lashing rain couldn’t dampen the spirit of the Wilderness Festival last weekend. It has been four years since Lord and Lady Rotherwick first opened their home and the festival has now grown in size and reputation, quickly becoming one of the most fashionable events of the Summer. Sprawled across the idyllic grounds of Cornbury Park, this festival is unlike any other. Forget suffering in your wellies all weekend, Wilderness is about accommodating your every need and desire. As well as the joys of live music including the legendary Burt Bacharach, there were a number of amazing attractions to keep everyone happy; this year they included a mini-roller disco, a pop up tent by the infamous Box nightclub and for the lucky few an outdoor tea party in honour of Cara Delevingne’s upcoming birthday. Her guests included the actor Douglas Booth, Jamie Winstone, Holliday Grainger, the Treadaway twins, and Bonnie Wright. We enjoyed summer cocktails and hampers full of deliciousness. Like any festival there were some seriously O.T.T outfits, but in the case of my friends it was all about being cool, comfortable, and casual —- a gold spandex leotard is not exactly a good look when there’s a rainstorm. Luckily I achieved my outfit goals by picking up some adorable Max Studio crotchet shorts, and pairing them with peter pan collared shirts. Until next time….
By: Flynn Roddam
Image: “Flynn Roddam wears Max Studio at the Wilderness Festival, Gloucestershire, England.”
One of my favorite things about Los Angeles is that it is able to accommodate any style. This is great news for someone like me as I am just as comfortable wearing a loose blouse with a pair of jean shorts, as I am in my favorite little black dress. Some of my most coveted hangouts include the Malibu Farm Market (to satisfy your inner surfer girl), the colorful street art of Abbot Kinney, The Santa Monica Third Street Promenade (for great shopping!) and Melrose Avenue in Beverly Hills. Between all these great locations you have the opportunity to switch into any summer style you love as long as you have a great pair of sunglasses and a beach tote to match!
1.Dark Tortoise w/ Brown Lens Sunglasses (MaileC1)2.Silk Beaded Shell (4101K35)3.Woven Tote (3604A43) 4.Fringed Hem Shorts (4201G01)5.Woven Leather Flat Sandals (Verde).
On Gabriella: Silk & Cotton Embroidered Tunic (4205D35), Linen Embroidered Shorts (4205E01), Hand Burnished Grecian Sandals (Vita)
Glorious Goodwood, the Sussex race meeting that begins to draw the English summer social season towards its grand finale is always a class act. And yesterday, Ladies Day, the ladies’ day was certainly made when Hollywood actor Tom Cruise arrived as a guest of host Lord March, the Duke of Richmond’s heir - and an extra frisson of excitement swept the course and followed him into the Richmond’s Box - along with the strains of the theme tune to Mission: Impossible being played by the Band of the Yorkshire Regiment. As the man of the day it fell to Cruise to present the Magnolia Cup - the ladies race - this year won by a returning victor, the supermodel Edie Campbell.
Images from left to right. Yana Max wearing Leon Max, Tom Cruise and Edie Campbell, Yana Max in-between the Earl of March and Viscount Astor.