The First Monday in May

31/03/2016 1:01 AM

By Flynn Roddam

“The First Monday in May” is the hot, new fashion film of the moment and it premieres at next months’s TriBeCa Film Festival in New York. The documentary is about the preparations for last year’s ‘Met Ball,’ the glamorous annual fashion event that raises money for the Costume Institute wing of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, and follows the work of American Vogue Editrix Anna Wintour in putting this event together. Working with Wintour is Costume Institute curator Andrew Bolton whose meticulous eye has him travel from China to Ireland in preparation – the exhibition that the ball opens is “China Through the Looking Glass” and it explores the impact of Chinese aesthetics on Western fashion.

Bolton seeks only the finest and most authentic pieces and the exhibition includes the works of greats, Poiret, Yves Saint Laurent, Jean Paul Gaultier, all juxtaposed against ancient Chinese artefacts, costumes, porcelain and paintings.

And now we can see some of the behind-the-scenes dramas that took place in the lead-up. If you liked the “September Issue” you will love this.

Vogue 100: A guided tour of the National Portrait Gallery exhibition

01/03/2016 9:51 PM


Take a tour of the newly opened Vogue 100: A Century of Style exhibition, sponsored by Leon Max, at the National Portrait Gallery with Vogue’s creative director, Jaime Perlman, and curator/Vogue contributing editor Robin Muir as they discuss a few of their favourite works in this very special centenary display.

FASHION CIRCUS TAKES ON LONDON

25/02/2016 1:04 AM

main_front_row_london_fashion_week_spring_summer_2016_01_1b01717-1b017ab

Suki Waterhouse, Sienna Miller, Kate Moss, Cara Delevingne and St. Vincent at the Burberry Womenswear Spring/Summer 2016 show

By Flora Naughtie

The seasoned heavyweights, Burberry, Alexander McQueen et al, again joined the emerging hip young stars, all fighting for the attention and of the fashion elite.

A first time entry to the London Fashion week diary is Mimi Wade. She is this years ‘one to watch.’ Her presentation with Fashion East (one of the many platforms that makes LFW so essential in introducing new designers to the roster) was met with particular acclaim, she was dubbed the “IT-girl designer who has re-designed the party dress.”

LONDON, ENGLAND – FEBRUARY 21: Models backstage ahead of the Preen by Thornton Bregazzi show during London Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2016/17 at TopShop Show Space on February 21, 2016 in London, England. (Photo by John Phillips/Getty Images)
Veteran NEWGEN designer Ryan Lo had a bold, feminine and frilly display combining Chinese popular culture with textile manipulation and earnt himself a place in the fashionistas’ diary.

Other highlights included Gareth Pugh’s (80s power dressing) collection at Freemasons Hall; the models were in strong tailored pieces, styled with masks (a bit Hannibal Lecter) and long leather gloves. It was a dark, eerie vibe perfectly suited to the quirky grandeur of its setting. Young Milanese designer Manuel Facchini also stood out for brilliance in tailoring and form. He was influenced by the Gothic architecture of Michael Hansmeyer and Richard Sweeney’s sculptures. Thornton Bregazzi’s professed ‘poetry groupie’ held its own in the Preen show. This was all decedent fabrics and winter florals which were brought together in an enchanting mix of grunge and free spirited imagination. Topshop Unique had the usual cool and youthful styles, all about the notably supermodel-studded front row; Jourdan Dunn fooling around with Karlie Kloss, social media male model star Lucky Blue Smith cosying up to Kate Moss’ little sister, Lottie, grande dames Anna Wintour and Dame Natalie Massanet smiling benignly.

LONDON, ENGLAND – FEBRUARY 20: Our former cover girl Erin O’Connor (L) and Naomi Campbell attend the Marc Jacobs Beauty dinner at the Club at Park Chinois on February 20, 2016 in London, England. (Photo by David M. Benett/Dave Benett/Getty Images for Marc Jacobs)

Fashion Week brings with it the parties, almost as important as the shows, and Saturday night was the night the city went wild. Over at Old Billingsgate Market, Natalia Vodianova and Karlie Kloss hosted the Naked Heart fundraiser. The whole hall was turned into a fun fair, with rides and competitions, bumper cars and crazy golf. Meanwhile, Marc Jacob’s dinner at hot new Mayfair restaurant Park Chinois (Great Gatsby meets Chinese, by the way) was a hit with the style set including Georgia May Jagger, Naomi Campbell and Alexa Chung.

Next stop: Milan.

LONDON, ENGLAND – FEBRUARY 22: Yasmin Le Bon, Amber Le Bon, Tiphaine De Lussy and Mimi Xu attend Peter Pilotto LFW AW16 show at The Queen Elizabeth II Conference Centre on February 22, 2016 in London, England. (Photo by Darren Gerrish/Getty Images)

It’s Couture, darling

03/02/2016 11:51 PM

By Flora Naughtie

It’s not hard to realise the painstaking artisan work that goes into each collection in Paris for the Haute Couture. The hours spent dreaming up the designs and the hours spent implementing them – by hand from start to finish – goes far beyond the mass-produced, ready to wear fashion of today.
Ulyana Sergeenko’s two slip dresses – reported by Vogue to have taken five months each to create – illustrate the severity with which designers approach couture week and how tightly the quality is regulated by it’s governing body, the Syndicate Chamber of Haute Couture.

Ulyana Sergeenko Summer 2016 Haute Couture Paris
Ulyana Sergeenko SS 2016, Haute Couture Paris

The work produced this season emphatically belongs to, and upholds, the illustrious tradition of haute couture that stretches back to the early 18th century. Standout pieces from Yacine Aouadi, a newcomer to the couture roster, included an abundance of floral appliqués.
Elie Saab’s collection comprised feminine lace and embroidery pushing the boundaries to a new height of luxe extravagance.
Maison Martin Margiela under John Galliano paid tribute to the late David Bowie with a clear glam-rock edge – think knee high glittering boots and asymmetrical hair and make-up.

Unknown-3

Elie Saab Spring Summer 2016 fashion show during Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week on January 27, 2016 in Paris, France.

GIGI-HADID-BACKSTAGE-CHANEL-PFW-SS16

Gigi Hadid at the Chanel Haute Couture Spring 2016, Photographed by Kevin Tachman.
Source: VOGUE.COM

What matters and creates talking points is not just the garments themselves but also the increasingly adventurous settings in which they are presented. Notable as always was Karl Lagerfeld’s Chanel: a Doll’s house presenting the models in compartments. The equally inventive Jean Paul Gaultier took his inspiration from the infamous Le Palace nightclub, the models smoked, drank and high-fived as they walked.

Cool work while you can get it.

Unknown-1

Dolce & Gabbana Alta Moda SS16

Fairy Tales Brought to Life Through Fashion in FIT’S Latest Exhibit

25/01/2016 10:49 PM

Kirsty Mitchell, The Storyteller, from the Wonderland series. Photograph © Kirsty Mitchell, kirstymitchellphotography.com


A bright red 18th century cape sits next to its 21st century Comme de Garçon cousin at the “Fairy Tale Fashion” exhibition at FIT in New York. It is a rather amazing mix of three hundred years of fashion themed around the famous fairy tales that inspired them, stories with which all of us are familiar.

The “Little Red Riding Hood” gallery inside “Fairy Tale Fashion.” Photo: The Museum at FIT


A pure white J. Medel cape for the “Snow Queen,” the sweeping silhouette of the Charles James ‘Swan Dress’ for the “Swan Maidens,” it’s full skirt made from alternating black, brown and beige meche and a 1980s Thierry Mugler with fish-tale skirt for the “Little Mermaid” just a few glamorous examples. This is a fun and imaginative way to look at fairytales, through this lens of high fashion.

Charles James, Swan evening dress, 1954-1955, USA. The Museum at FIT (illustrating “The Swan Maidens”)

Mad Max: Fury Road Feeling A Lot of Love

19/01/2016 1:43 AM

Congratulations to our former cover girl Rosie Huntington-Whiteley and the whole cast of George Miller’s action film Mad Max: Fury Road on winning nine of the 11 awards for which they were nominated for at last night’s Critics’ Choice Awards! They have been feeling a lot of love this awards season with 10 Oscar nominations – including Best Picture and Best Director. 

Rosie Huntington-Whiteley arrives at the The 21st Annual Critics’ Choice Awards at Barker Hangar on January 17, 2016 in Santa Monica, California. (Photo by Steve Granitz/WireImage)

SANTA MONICA, CA – JANUARY 17: (L-R) Actresses Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, Abbey Lee, Zoe Kravitz, Courtney Eaton and Riley Keough, winners of Best Action Movie for ‘Mad Max: Fury Road’, pose in the press room at the 21st annual Critics’ Choice Awards at Barker Hangar on January 17, 2016 in Santa Monica, California. (Photo by Jason LaVeris/FilmMagic)

Our Former Cover Girls Spotted at Golden Globe Mania

11/01/2016 8:55 PM

The 73rd Golden Globe Awards honored the best in film and American television of 2015. Also highlighted were some of the industry’s best dressed for the first major red carpet event of 2016. We narrowed it down to our top picks.

ROSIE HUNTINGTON-WHITELEY Our F/W 2010 muse looks stunning in her antique gold Atelier Versace gown at the 73rd Annual Golden Globe Awards at The Beverly Hilton Hotel on January 10, 2016 in Beverly Hills, California. (Photo by Steve Granitz/WireImage)

MASHA RUDENKO Our S/S 2010 beauty attends the 2016 Weinstein Company and Netflix Golden Globes after party on January 10, 2016 in Los Angeles, California. (Photo by David Livingston/Getty Images)

SUKI WATERHOUSE Model and Leon Max “it girl” Suki Waterhouse attends the W Magazine celebration of the ‘Best Performances’ Portfolio and The Golden Globes with Audi and Dom Perignon at Chateau Marmont on January 7, 2016 (Photo by Jason Merritt/Getty Images for W Magazine)

Golden Globes

Left to Right Clockwise:

ALICIA VIKANDER was demure in a ruffled, sparkly Louis Vuitton pinafore gown. (Photo by John Shearer/Getty Images)

CAITRIONA BALFE The Outlander actress vamped it up in a black semi-sheer Alexander McQueen dress, accessorized with Fred Leighton jewelry, a Christian Louboutin handbag and Roger Vivier shoes. (Photo by George Pimentel/WireImage)

EVA GREEN The Penny Dreadful actress embraced her romantic side in a gold lace Elie Saab Haute Couture dress. (Photo by Steve Granitz/WireImage)

LILY JAMES wears a pastel Marchesa gown with keyhole cutout and caped detail, as well as Harry Winston diamonds. (Photo by Steve Granitz/WireImage)

Leon Max to Sponsor “Vogue 100: A Century of Style”

08/01/2016 10:45 PM

Next month the big news in fashion is going to be the opening of “Vogue 100: A Century of Style” at the National Portrait Gallery. It will be the grand opening of British Vogue’s 100th anniversary celebrations. The magazine was founded by Mr Condé Nast when the American edition of the magazine was unable to cross the Atlantic due to the First World War. Despite Europe being plunged into war it seems the British couldn’t get enough of reading about fashion and high society and the magazine was a hit. The exhibition, which Leon Max is proud to sponsor, is set to be a heady mix of the brightest and best images from the past hundred years of this venerable title.

All the great photographers are in there – Edward Steichen, Horst, Cecil Beaton, Clifford Coffin, Lee Miller, Norman Parkinson, Snowdon, John Deakin, David Bailey, Patrick Demarchelier, Mario Testino, Nick Knight, Juergen Teller, Tim Walker – and that’s just a few. Some the highlights, below:

“Vogue 100: A Century of Style” is at the National Portrait Gallery, London from 11th February – 22nd May 2016″

W Magazine’s ‘Best Performances’ Golden Globe Bash

08/01/2016 8:43 PM

Los Angeles, Last Night: It fell to W magazine editor Stefano Tonchi and hotelier André Balazs to host the Golden Globes warm-up party, a celebration of W’s “The Best Performances Issue” at the Chateau Marmont on Sunset Boulevard.

The swanky bash quickly filled up with a well dressed crowd that included Cate Blanchett, Lily James, Suki Waterhouse, Yana Max, Elizabeth Banks, Kirsten Dunst, Brie Larson and many more.

A view of the atmosphere is seen at the W Magazine celebration of the ‘Best Performances’ Portfolio and The Golden Globes with Audi and Dom Perignon at Chateau Marmont (Photo by Donato Sardella/Getty Images for W Magazine)

Actress Lily James arrived at the event dressed in a stunning floral print Alexander McQueen dress that proved once again that she’s a fashion It girl. (Photo by Donato Sardella/Getty Images for W Magazine)

>The beautiful Suki Waterhouse was dressed to impress. The actress and model showed some skin in a strappy gold gown as she made her way inside the star-studded Hollywood event. (Photo by Jason Merritt/Getty Images for W Magazine)

All eyes were on Cate Blanchett, a favorite this awards season for her performance in Carol, who stood out in more so than normal in an eye-catching number by Erdem. (Photo by Donato Sardella/Getty Images for W Magazine)

The Top 12 Fashion Covers of 2015

24/12/2015 12:46 AM

The year of 2015 saw some amazing magazine covers. We narrowed it down to 12 of our favourites…featuring our former campaign cover girl Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, Karlie Kloss + Taylor Swift, Charlize Theron, Poppy Delevingne, Lupita Nyong’o and many more…

ART BASEL – PARTYING WITH THE GLITTER-ARTY

13/12/2015 7:37 AM

By Emily Maddick, Contributing Editor, Grazia

We’ve been browsing incredible art and partying with the world’s glitter-arty for the past five days at Miami Art Basel – and the pouring tropical rain has most definitely not stopped play!

Miami during this world-famous art fair is the most incredible place, with exhibitors from over 32 countries, it is a feast for art junkies and star spotters alike. And this year there are even a number of famous folk exhibiting including Lenny Kravitz and Sylvester Stallone. On the VIP day one of the fair at the Miami Convention Centre, we actually bumped into Mr Stallone who is exhibiting a selection of his own paintings. Sly admitted he was ‘daunted’ to be showing his work, but judging by the crowd of admirers around his stand – including Elle McPherson in sunglasses and Jefferson Hack – they went down a treat.

Paris Hilton has been wafting around town, we encountered her festooned in red sequins at a dinner hosted by Jeremy Scott and Spotify. Remarkably the hotel heiress didn’t seem all that interested in art and seemed more concerned about how the rain was affecting her hair. Which to be fair has been a lot of ladies concern this week.

One sensational bash that didn’t end up a soggy mess was W magazine’s roller disco on the beach at the Faena Hotel.

Katie Holmes was spotted at the bar at the Edition hotel, where we went to a Dazed and Confused party only to discover that the Basement VIP area had not only a bowling alley, but an ice rink too, with a neo art instillation that read, ‘I think I had too much to dream last night.’

tumblr_inline_nz5obnkrjR1r2m0xc_540
Photo Credit: @artbasel Instagram, #NunoRamos ‘Série Anjo e Boneco, 50 – Anjo, asa, boneco’, 2013 via@galeria_anitaschwartz | Nova 2015

And in all honesty, that is rather what Miami during Art Basel feels like; a somewhat surreal dream, especially if you head to the achingly hip Wynwood area in the Design District. During the fair, all graffiti in the city of Miami is legal for three days, so street art flourishes and world-renowned street artists such as Banksy and Obey pepper the city with hidden gems in secret places. Who would have thought a city with such a reputation for vice, could actually be really rather nice on the culture front. Until next time, Miami.

ART BASEL MIAMI – JAY JOPLING & NICK JONES’ KICK-OFF PARTY, SOHO BEACH HOUSE

10/12/2015 1:06 AM

By Emily Maddick, Contributing Editor, Grazia

It’s more nice than vice in Miami these days, especially during the week-long money-spending marathon that is Art Basel.

And when we say nice, we mean, nice, REALLY nice amounts of cash being splashed on contemporary art that leaves you baffled yet beautifully inspired. And it’s the Brits who – like expat Brits anywhere on this globe – kick off the party proceedings with dealer extraordinaire, Jay Jopling and Mr Nick Soho House Jones – hosting the Art Basel kick-off party last night at the heavenly Soho Beach House.

Tracey Emin was first to greet us, on stonking form, shoe-less on the sand and resplendent in Vivienne Westwood. She took our hand and promptly introduced us to all the movers and shakers of the art world: Marc Quinn, Jay Jopling and the marvellously attired Chuck Close – a serious art hero of ours.

But it wasn’t just the art scene that was well-represented at this exclusive beach party – there was a decent smattering of fashion designers too, including our best dressed of the night, Roksanda Illinic (in her own creation of course) and the talented Felder and Felder sisters, Daniela and Anette. Later, the legendary Giorgio Moroda played a DJ set while everyone danced in the Atlantic surf, under the stars, Grey Goose cocktail in hand.

Mr Leonardo Di Caprio is in town – with pal Sly Stallone – and the rumour is this big time art-buyer will only actually RSVP to a party if no one can know he is coming, no one can look at him or indeed photograph him if he does grace a venue with his starry presence. So it’s Catch Him if You Can.

Another elusive guest in Miami is rumoured to be Republican Presidential candidate, Mr Donald Trump. Word is he could well be holed up in Baz Luhrman and Catherine Martin’s newly opened – hottest ticket in town – Faena Saxony hotel. These are as yet unsubstantiated reports, but there is an awful lot of Miami’s finest cops stationed outside. Must dash, we’re off to get our UberBOAT (read yacht) the only way to travel round the art fair darlings. In Cannes it’s the Uber-copter to shuttle you from the Croisette to Monaco – here the only way to beat the traffic is to head to the waterways – and they even do UberBOAT pool. We’ll report back.

The BFAs

04/12/2015 6:56 PM

Georgia May Jagger (Photo by David M. Benett/Dave Benett/Getty Images) 

Rosie Huntington Whiteley (Photo by Anthony Harvey/Getty Images) 

 Yana Max and Leon Max (Photo by Mike Marsland/WireImage)

Lady Gaga (Photo by Anthony Harvey/Getty Images) 


Of course it was going to start late – this is fashion, after all. And when organisers had finally given up on Kate Moss ever appearing, things could get under way at the British Fashion Awards, held this week at the home of English National Opera, the Coliseum, just off Trafalgar Square in London. The red-carpet hits? Yana Max in floaty green Leon Max, of course. Then there was Lady Gaga in a crimson Tom Ford encrusted with paillettes, as well as former Leon Max campaign star Rosie Huntington-Whiteley in a silver Burberry dress that shimmered dangerously around her décolletage and Georgia May Jagger who co-ordinated the embroidered snake on the back of her sheer but discreet gown with that on the back of Gucci designer Alessandro Michele’s jacket to whom she presented the international designer gong. Other winners included Karl Lagerfeld, presented his award by Anna Wintour. It turns out that he once built a tennis court at his house in the South of France in anticipation of her coming to stay. And it doesn’t get much more fashion than that. 

Contributing Editor: Richard Dennen

Jacqueline de Ribes

24/11/2015 5:45 PM

2

Jacqueline de Ribes in Yves Saint Laurent, 1962
Photograph by Richard Avedon, © The Richard Avedon Foundation

1

Jacqueline de Ribes in Christian Dior, 1959
Photograph by Roloff Beny, Roloff Beny Estate

Photographed by Avedon in 1955, Jacqueline de Ribes, a French Countess, shows her profile. Simple braid, strong cheek-bones, pronounced nose, swan-like neck: she is aristocratic beauty par excellence. Now, aged 86 she has been a fashion icon for decades and is the subject of a new exhibition at the Met which opened yesterday. Her wardrobe is something to be reckoned with. In 1959 she arrived at a costume dinner late, just in time for pudding, wearing an outfit made from three of her couture dresses. The Duke and Duchess of Windsor and Oscar de la Renta were present but it was, as de la Renta later said, “a show. And she was the star.” She was friends with Yves Saint Laurent and was one of Truman Capote’s Swans. And she shopped. The Met is displaying 60 of her couture and ready-to-wear pieces – from Armani, Balmain, Bill Blass, Dior, John Galliano, Madame Gres, Valentino, Jean-Paul Gaultier, Guy Laroche, Yves Saint Laurent and Ungaro – as well as dresses from her own collection (she, quite appropriately, turned designer in the mid-80s.) And the designers repaid the compliment. Jean-Paul Gaultier dedicated his entire collection to her in ’99 and describes her as “Parisian royalty – the essence of Parisian elegance.” Yves Saint Laurent’s partner Pierre Berge says of her “she was a real femme du monde – she had an art de vivre that included dressing in couture and also hosting dinner parties for 50 in black tie. I think she may be the last to know how to live like that.” And of herself the Countess says: “Recently someone told me I’m like a DJ of couture. Whatever I pick up I can turn into something else. It can come from the market of St. Tropez or from my grandmother or be haute couture. Modern artists do things like that.”

The Art of Style runs until February 21st

Contributing Editor: Richard Dennen

THE 2015 GLAMOUR WOMEN OF THE YEAR AWARDS

12/11/2015 10:44 PM

by Jill Lowitz

Photo: Jill Lowitz wearing the Leon Max Stretch Silk Paillette Dress


How do you get to Carnegie Hall? INSPIRE CHANGE.

That was the message last night at the Glamour Women of the Year Awards held at Manhattan’s legendary Carnegie Hall. With the Mayor declaring it Women of the Year Day and the Empire State Building lit Glamour pink, the energy of this empowering message of was felt across the entire city.

Honoring female game changers in the fields of fashion, the arts, athletics, medicine and politics, the Women of the Year Awards, now celebrating their 25th year, shine a spotlight on these inspirational women.

With a brief (and hilarious) intro by comedienne Amy Schumer, the festivities commenced to honor the latest inductees into this legendary club that includes such notables ranging from Madonna to Malala.

Starting with barrier breakers like glam ballerina Misty Copeland, entrepreneur Elizabeth Holmes, the U.S. Women’s Soccer Team and trans champion Caitlyn Jenner, followed by ‘girl power’ pioneer Victoria Beckham, the peacemaking survivors of the Charleston church tragedy, health advocate Cecile Richards and Hollywood hero Reese Witherspoon, who is shaking up the movie industry with her woman focused production company, the overall message was that we all have the ability to make the changes we want to see in the world. From the looks of these inspirational women whether glamming it up on the red carpet or offering their wisdom on the stage, there is nothing more beautiful than being strong, brave and believing in yourself.

One Helluva Hallowe’en

09/11/2015 11:37 PM

London is still recovering from one Hell of a Hallowe’en Hangover. For 2015 is the year that England officially went Hallowe’en crazy. Till now it’s been considered “rather American” but this year no corner of the country has ignored the celebration. In the capital, the party of the social season was the UNICEF Hallowe’en Ball. Hostess Jemima Khan went as a murder victim. Then there was Poppy Delevingne dressed as Margot Robbie’s character from “Suicide Squad” – the film her sister Cara is also starring in, and Yana Max looking hot as a Circus performer.

Unknown-1

But when the time came for Lord Dalmeny of Sotheby’s auction house to sell a cameo role in the currently being filmed movie “Bridget Jones’ Baby” it was to much mirth that Hugh Grant, dressed as a lion – who had starred in the previous films, and a recent father, raised his hand to bid £10000. After another bid of £15000 came in, the auctioneer quipped: “Hugh, for an extra £5000 you can be involved in making Bridget Jones’s baby!”

A Portrait of Fashion

26/10/2015 5:41 PM

Alexander McQueen; Isabella Blow David LaChapelle, 1996


Whether it’s the damasks, satins, velvets and furs of the Tudor and Stuart courts or the simple cottons or woollen cloths of Regency England, fashion fixes a picture in time, and can tell us both much of the sitter and the age they lived in. “A Portrait of Fashion” is the new book to come from the National Portrait Gallery, an institution that designer Leon Max is proud to support, and is a guide to the significance of the dress featured in a collection of 600 years worth of portraits, a collection which serves as the ultimate guide to British costume through history. There is the opulence of the ‘Ditchley’ portrait of Elizabeth I, where the Queen’s majesty is proclaimed in a dress of the most luxurious fabrics and jewels, to the more glamorously feminine fashion plate that is Boldini’s Lady Colin Campbell, all over-elongated and exaggerated limbs and body in her black satin evening gown with its seductively plunging neckline.

The Rolling Stones Terry O’Neill, 1963


The Rolling Stones by Terry O’Neill meanwhile show themselves to be more rock that the Beatles, longer hair and leather jackets paired with suits, or take the cross-dressing artist Grayson Perry. His psychedelic smock dress is designed by a Central St Martins student, for over a decade the Turner Prize-winner has been collaborating with the textile-print course there. Even as recently as the ‘90s, a moment in fashion is captured in David LaChappelle’s picture of Alexander McQueen and Isabella Blow camping it up in front of a burning Headingham Castle. What does it say about their relationship and how both their lives would end? There is the hat and her eccentricity, there is his goatee beard, his body squeezed into corset and arms in a long pair of red vinyl gloves, the iconoclastic fashion designer to the end. Whether 1996, or the Ditchley of 1592, McQueen or Elizabeth I, in one form or another, this is power dressing par excellence.

Gertrude Elizabeth, Lady Colin Campbell Giovanni Boldini

Grayson Perry Richard Ansett, 18 September 2013

Frieze Week

22/10/2015 11:14 PM

By Flora Naughtie


Photo: Lyndon Douglas, Frieze London

The 13th annual edition of Frieze London closed its doors yesterday, after a week in which this hot, contemporary art fair was descended upon by thousands; the inevitable mix of art world aficionados and fashionable East End hipsters. Containing everything from floating apples at Glasgow’s The Modern Institute, to sightings of Tunga’s ‘Siamese hair twins’ wandering the tents, a few works and gallery presentations did, somehow, manage to standout from the crowd. Ken Kegami’s live portraits of visitors – genitalia for men and breasts for women- caused queues throughout the five days. While ÅYR’s Comfort Zone installation, offering beds and of course a chance to charge your rapidly depleting I-phone battery mid-fair, also proved to be a popular stop.

Photo: Linda Nylind/Frieze. Anton Kern, Frieze London


Over in the more traditional layout of gallery booths, the Focus section of emerging galleries and artists produced many talking points. The inclusion this year of a Peckham based gallery- The Sunday Painter- showing Semara Scott’s work attracted the crowds’ attention, while New York/Brussels based Clearing had up an arresting series of Harold Ancart’s brilliant and graphic paintings. The blue-chip gallery stands contained just as much variation, although, one of my favorites, Do Ho Suh’s translucent structures of household appliances were features of both Lehmann Maupin’s and Victoria Miro’s stands. The Antony Kern gallery meanwhile amped up the volume with a vivid, if a little lurid, selection of Chris Martin’s paintings (you wouldn’t want to stay in there too long) while Cheim & Read provided a nice bit of humour with Jack Pierson’s piece Breakfast, hope, dinner, fear. Hauser and Wirth, however, switched up the usual boxed-in booth with a chessboard-like grid of plinths adorned with sculptures, which it would seem were interchanged as pieces were sold off throughout the week; my favorite, a small Louise Bourgeois called couple was still there on the final day…

Photo: Cajsa Carlson/Frieze. Do Ho Suh at Victoria Miro, Frieze London